My research Topic

For my theory and context module I must choose a research topic which I wish to explore. This will be the basis for my work, where at the end I will produce a written report. This will contain, the methods which I would use to research the topic as well as other designers who explore similar themes. 

The different possible research topics are: 

• The future workplace
• Sustainable materials
• Archival interventions
• Innovations in giving
• Collaborative consumption
• Well being
 

These all look at problems which may need to be overcome in the future. These are topics which can be related to all different areas, but I am going to narrow it down to my specialism: a designer maker in knit. 

Currently I am interested in the idea of creating 'a new or improved textile product or service idea'. This sounds like an interesting area to explore as it sounds creative as it is all about finding a solution to a problem which may occur in the future. 

Of the three topics within this area, I most like the sound of well being. I think this would be something I would find interesting to explore and research more into especially as it is about helping others. 

I would need to look at what methods would be useful in looking into this. I think that this topic would need interviews/focus groups to gain ideas from the people who it would benefit, what they would actually want/need. As a designer maker I am more free in the way that I explore ideas and do not have such strict limitations as a commercial designer. I feel that this would mean I could be more adventurous in my approach and would allow me to look at the ideas in a more free way.  

 

Theory and Context: The brief

For my theory and context module I have to complete two sections: a reflective blog and a written assignment.

This is my reflective blog. I will be writing up tasks set by my tutor as well as posts about aspects of textiles which I am interested in and what inspires me. Also about my work and what I am doing in the other parts of my course.

The written assignment will be 3000 words and will be looking at a research topic which I will have to choose from a set of options.

I hope that this module will show me another side to this field. I am learning the practical skills, design, drawing and theory side through the other parts of my course but this module is very different. It looks at a lot of different areas and hopefully it will inspire me.

W.T. Johnsons: Fabric Finishers

As part of my course at university, I have had the chance to visit W.T. Johnsons, which is a fabric finishing company. This is a part of textiles manufacture which isn't usually considered by people but it is an important stage in fabric production as it is what makes the cloth 'special'. This is a word which was used a lot by Alan, who talked to us about the company and gave us a tour of the factory. This word 'special' can mean different things to different people and so the techniques used can differ according to the client and their needs. 

The washing of the fabrics, and through a bath in the base.

They worked on a lot of suiting  fabrics and they mainly worked  on woven cloth. They are a world leader in this field - wool suiting fabric finishing. Unfortunately knitted fabrics aren't finished in  the same way, as they have  stretch in them. This difference in quality to woven fabrics means that then need to be  treated differently in order to get the same high quality finish. So although I did not see any  knitted fabrics, I still found the  tour very interesting. 

One aspect which I hadn't thought effected fabric finishing was the chemistry of the water. Apparently this does, and the location of the factory is on top of a bore hole. This means that they can get their water direct from the ground and it has the perfect chemistry to get the best results from the fabrics. 

The roller in this picture had tiny holes along it
 through which air was blown. This meant
the fabric goes from really wet at left side,
 to dry on the right.

We got shown the machines, through the different stages in finishing. I found this was a useful visit to see all the steps and the different processes and machines. This has shown me a different aspect of textiles which I am interested in learning more about.

I especially liked being able to feel all the fabrics at the different stages. This meant that I could get a first hand insight into how the processes effected the cloth and how much nicer they were by the end.

These are the finished rolls of fabric,
ready to be sent back to the clients.

Grayson Perry: Playing to the Gallery

Grayson Perry is giving a series of lectures at the Tate modern on the theme of art. These are called the Reich Lectures and are currently being broadcast on BBC radio 4. Through these lectures Perry is hoping to answer questions in relation to art, in the hope that he can help people  understand and appreciate art by giving them the knowledge required. He is a practising artist which he feels means that because he has knowledge of creating art, he can use this experience in his response to answering the questions in his series of lectures.

Democracy Has Bad Taste

Art is popular but it can be seen as intimidating to the general public, especially the language which is used to describe it. The issue which Grayson Perry is looking at in this first lecture is quality of art – how to tell if something is good, and who tells us that it is good. Also on what criteria is it the artwork judged? 

According to Perry judging on aesthetic merit is buying into society. This is because beauty is a construct. It is not something which can be measured but instead, it is based on an opinion which we have already and could be seen to be based on familiarity.  

'to say that something is not beautiful is to put the wrong criteria on it' This is saying that everything has its merits, just because it may not conform to one set of beliefs does not mean that it should be overlooked. 

'Art for arts sake' is a phrase often used, however it is always tied to money and so this may not be possible. 

Art should be judged as luxury goods.

Who validates artwork? This could be critics, other artists, teachers or the media. They all have a consensus about what is good artwork. But it is the curators who hold the most power as it is they who choose what to display together. 

Without validation, all that is left is popularity. This leads to Grayson's title of the lecture ,which is 'democracy has bad taste'. He is saying that just because something is popular, doesn't mean that it is good art.

I think that this was an interesting lecture. Grayson discusses the issue in a light-hearted way which makes it more interesting to listen to. He made points which I hadn't considered before which has made me think more about the art world and how it works. 
He hasn't come to a definite conclusion. I think this shows that there isn't a true answer. Things can be interpreted in different ways and it just depends on how you choose to see it.

Perry, G. (2013) Democracy has bad taste. [Radio series episode]. The Reith Lectures - Grayson Perry: Playing to the Gallery: 2013. London: BBC Radio 4.

The Great Northern Contemporary Craft Fair

On the 11th September I had to opportunity to visit the Great Northern Contemporary Craft Fair in Spinningfields, Manchester. I looked forward to this, as it is the host of a large selection of designers who work within the field where, I want to be. So I knew it would provide a great deal of inspiration to me. After having been, I would be interested in exhibiting there myself, as it had a wonderful atmosphere, where everyone was friendly and happy to talk to me about their work. I could definitely see myself there and now it is something that I can aim towards in the future. 

Unfortunately there wasn't a lot of knit at the fair, although there was quite a lot of weave stalls. This was disappointing however there was a stall selling knitted jewellery which I particularly liked.  The stall was that of Amy Lawrence. The photograph above is of one of her knitted necklaces. I like the way that she has shaped the work into triangular shapes at the bottom, creating a zig-zag effect. I also think the colours on this piece work really well together as they compliment each other, with the bright orange working to stand out and become a feature. Her work is a completely different style to my own by I think it is beautiful work which I find inspiring.

Another stall which I really like was felt feelings which handmade felt and then printed onto them various wildlife designs. They sold a collection of sketchbooks which had felt covers and had different animals printed onto them. I really like these but instead I bought a cushion from the stall  which is made from tweed and then had their rabbit design printed onto it. I really like the rabbit print as this is an animal which I love as I have one myself. I am pleased with this purchase as it goes great with my room!

Great Northern Contemporary Craft Fair. (N.D.) Retrieved from: http://www.greatnorthernevents.co.uk/

Lawrence, A. (2013) Necklace - Butterfly Multi. Photograph. Retrieved from: http://www.amylawrencedesigns.co.uk/82314/744829/portfolio/necklace-butterfly-multi

Ashton, C. (N.D.) Felt Feelings. Retrieved from: http://www.clareashton.com/

Designing To Minimise Waste

Designing to minimise waste is a concept which I have not properly thought about but I realise that it is a key issue within the textiles industry. Waste is something which is encountered through the multiple stages of manufacture, from fibre production, to fabrics and the end product as well as once it reaches the consumer. 

When I first thought of this concept, I first thought of water. This is because I know that vast amounts of water are used through both dying and finishing of both fabrics and garments. Electricity is another high usage which I thought about. However the actual fabric and fibres themselves are subject to being wasted. Not only is this by the consumer, when the product reaches the end of its life but also during the manufacturing stages.

This is an image of Zero waste Garments by David Tefler. He had designed a jacket which will use all of the length of fabric and so therefore there won't be any wastage. This is because on average only 85% of fabric is used in clothing manufacture, Rissanen, T (N.D.). Although that still is the majority of the fabric, on a large scale where clothing are mass produced, this would account for a lot of wastage. This way of designing could be a clever way of reducing this percentage and therefore helping to reduce the impact on the environment.

Textile Toolbox. (N.D.) Design to Minimise Waste. Retrieved from: http://www.textiletoolbox.com/strategies-minimise-waste/overview/ 
Tefler, D photograph by McQuillan, T. (2010) Zero Waste Garments. Photograph. Retrieved from: http://www.textiletoolbox.com/posts/design-minimise-waste/

The Textiles Futures Research Centre

The Textiles Futures Research Centre is a group based across a couple of colleges at the University of the Arts, London. These are: Central Saint Martins and Chelsea College of Art. The Design and Research team look at the sustainability of textiles and how to make this possible within today’s practise. It is in the hope of looking towards the future. 

They aim to discover ways of making textiles more sustainable by focusing on three areas: science and technology, sustainable strategy and well-being and social innovation. These are all very different branches so cover the variety of subject matters within this field.

Carole Collet – Biolace: The promises of Synthetic Biology for Future Textiles

Carole Colette is a deputy director for the Textiles Futures Research Centre. She is interested in looking at plants and biological research which could provide living technology. Biolace is a project she worked on between 2010 and 2012. This is a research project which looks at plant science and the possibilities that these could hold. It is a project which looks at what could be possible in 40 years time. She has looked at genetically designing planets to perform to meet human needs and in particular producing textiles. 

I really like the photographs which she has taken to demonstrate the concept of this project. They look really interesting in the way that the upper part of the plant is completely natural, whilst the roots are what contain the fabric/lace. I think that the strength of her images caught my attention which is why I chose to look more at this particular project. 

I like her ideas and concepts and although I'm not sure if this will indeed become the future of textiles; it has opened my eyes to the possibilities of a radically different textiles industry. This is something which could be very exciting for the future as well as being better for the environment. 

Textiles Futures Research Centre. (N.D.) BioLace: The Promises of Synthetic Technology for Future Textiles. Retrieved  From: http://www.tfrc.org.uk/research/biolace/

Collett, C. (2010-2012) Strawberry Noir. Photograph. Retrieved From: http://www.tfrc.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/BioLace-Press-Release.pdf

Collett, C. (2010-2012) Factor 60 Tomato. Photograph. Retrieved From: http://www.tfrc.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/BioLace-Press-Release.pdf